We live today indebted to McCardell, Cashin, Hawes, Wilkins, and Maxwell, and other women who liberated American fashion from the confines of Parisian design. Independence came in tying, wrapping, storing, harmonizing, and rationalizing that wardrobe. These designers established the modem dress code, letting playsuits and other active wear outfits suffice for casual clothing, allowing pants to enter the wardrobe, and prizing rationalism and versatility in dress, in contradiction to dressing for an occasion or allotment of the day. Fashion in America was logical and answerable to the will of the women who wore it. Implicitly or explicitly, American fashion addressed a democracy, whereas traditional Paris-based fashion was prescriptive and imposed on women, willing or not.In an earlier time, American fashion had also followed the dictates of Paris, or even copied and pirated specific French designs. Designer sportswear was not modeled on that of Europe, as “modem art” would later be; it was genuinely invented and developed in America. Its designers were not high-end with supplementary lines. The design objective and the business commitment were to sportswear, and the distinctive traits were problem-solving ingenuity and realistic lifestyle applications. Ease of care was most important: summer dresses and outfits, in particular, were chiefly cotton, readily capable of being washed and pressed at home. Closings were simple, practical, and accessible, as the modem woman depended on no personal maid to dress her. American designers prized resourcefulness and the freedom of women who wore the clothing.Many have argued that the women designers of this time were able to project their own clothing values into a new style. Of course, much of this argument in the 1930s-40s was advanced because there was little or no experience in justifying apparel(服装) on the basis of utility. If Paris was cast aside, the tradition of beauty was also to some degree slighted. Designer sportswear would have to be verified by a standard other than that of pure beauty; the emulation of a designer’s life in designer sportswear was a crude version of this relationship. The consumer was ultimately to be mentioned as well, especially by the likes of Dorothy Shaver, who could point to the sales figures at Lord & Taylor.Could utility alone justify the new ideas of the American designers? Fashion is often regarded as a pursuit of beauty, and some cherished fashion’s trivial relationship to the fine arts. What the designers of the American sportswear proved was that fashion is a genuine design art, answering to the demanding needs of service. Of course these practical, insightful designers have determined the course of late twentieth-century fashion. They were the pioneers of gender equity, in their useful, adaptable clothing, which was both made for the masses and capable of self-expression. What contribution did the women designers make to American fashion?______ A. They made some improvements on the traditional Parisian design.B. They formulated a dress code with distinctive American features.C. They came up with a brand new set of design procedures.D. They made originality a top priority in their fashion design. What do we learn about American designer sportswear?______ A. It imitated the European model.B. It laid emphasis on women’s beauty.C. It represented genuine American art.D. It was a completely new invention. What characterized American designer sportswear?______ A. Pursuit of beauty.B. Decorative closings.C. Ease of care.D. Fabric quality. What occurred in the design of women’s apparel in America during the 1930s-40s?______ A. A shift of emphasis from beauty to utility.B. The emulation of traditional Parisian design.C. A search for balance between tradition and novelty.D. The involvement of more women in fashion design. What do we learn about designers of American sportswear?______ A. They catered to the taste of the younger generation.B. They radically changed people’s concept of beauty.C. They advocated equity between men and women.D. They became rivals of their Parisian counterparts.
Most people can remember a phone number for up to thirty seconds. When this short amount of time elapses, however, the numbers are erased from the memory. How did the information get there in the first place? Information that makes its way to the short term memory (STM) does so via the sensory storage area. The brain has a filter which only allows stimuli that is of immediate interest to pass on to the STM, also known as the working memory.There is much debate about the capacity and duration of the short term memory. The most accepted theory comes from George A. Miller, a cognitive psychologist who suggested that humans can remember approximately seven chunks of information. A chunk is defined as a meaningful unit of information, such as a word or name rather than just a letter or number. Modem theorists suggest that one can increase the capacity of the short term memory by chunking, or classifying similar information together. By organizing information, one can optimize the STM, and improve the chances of a memory being passed on to long term storage.When making a conscious effort to memorize something, such as information for an exam, many people engage in “rote rehearsal”. By repeating something over and over again, we are able to keep a memory alive. Unfortunately, this type of memory maintenance only succeeds if there are no interruptions. As soon as a person stops rehearsing the information, it has the tendency to disappear. When a pen and paper are not handy, you might attempt to remember a phone number by repeating it aloud. If the doorbell rings or the dog barks to come in before you get the opportunity to make your phone call, you will forget the number instantly. Therefore, rote rehearsal is not an efficient way to pass information from the short term to long term memory. A better way is to practice “elaborate rehearsal”. This involves assigning semantic meaning to a piece of information so that it can be filed along with other pre-existing long term memories.Encoding information semantically also makes it more retrievable. Retrieving information can be done by recognition or recall. Humans can recall memories that are stored in the long term memory and used often. However, if a memory seems to be forgotten, it may eventually be retrieved by prompting. The more cues a person is given (such as pictures), the more likely a memory can be retrieved. This is why multiple choice tests are often used for subjects that require a lot of memorization.1. According to the passage, how do memories get transferred to the STM? ______ A ) They stem from the long term memory.B) They are filtered from the sensory storage area.C ) They get rearranged when they enter the brain. D) They enter STM via the nervous system.2. How can a person remember more information in a short time according to modern theorists? ______ A ) By organizing it. C) By giving it a name.B ) By repeating it. D) By writing it down on paper.3. Why does the author mention a dog's bark? ______ A )To exemplify poor memory.B)To analyze a type of interruption.C )To compare human memory with dogs’ memory.D )To illustrate the lack of efficiency of rote rehearsal.4. Which of the following is true about retrieving information? ______ A ) Elaborate rehearsal contributes to information retrieval.B ) Assigning semantic meaning to the information is the best way to retrieve it.C ) It's impossible to retrieve forgotten information without picture prompts.D ) Encoding information is more efficient than chunking it.5. Which of the following is true according to the passage? ______ A ) One's memory capacity can be enhanced by rote rehearsal.B ) Putting information down is suggested for improving memory.C ) Providing sufficient prompts helps information retrieval.D ) Multiple choice exams are the most difficult.